Amu of the Pharaohs: Tracing Lamu’s Forgotten Past

 

 

                                                                             The Lamu Ocean Front | Source: Author 

Lamu Island

Lamu Island belongs to an archipelago of five islands that include Pate, Manda, Kiwayu and Manda Toto. Lamu Town on Lamu Island is not only the largest urban settlement, but also the capital of Lamu County. This archipelago is on the East African coast, with a section of the county on the mainland.

Lamu Island is one of the most ancient settlements in Africa. Archaeologists propose that habitation started in the 1300s, but evidence from hieroglyphics suggest otherwise. Lamu has been mentioned several times in Ancient Egyptian texts as ‘Amu.’ The other land mentioned in the ancient texts is Punt. The fact that there is a Somali breakaway country called Puntland further north of Lamu is a clear indication that these two territories are the ones mentioned in the ancient texts. It is also significant that the original inhabitants of Amu call themselves ‘Amu’ and their Swahili dialect, ‘Ki-Amu.’

Lamu culture is infused with Bantu, Arab and Indian traditions. For years Arabs had made the East African Coast their trading posts. Goods were traded from the interior of Africa for onward ferrying to the Arabian Peninsula and the Indian subcontinent. There is evidence that even China was involved in this trade.

                                                                  Entrance to the town square | Source: Author 

A brief History of Lamu

Lamu, as we have seen above is not just the name of an island. It is an archipelago that includes parts of the mainland. Lamu Island was selected as the capital due to the ease of defending it from enemies approaching from the Mainland or the ocean.

During the reign of Thothmes III of 18^th Dynasty Egypt, an officer by the name Amen-em-heb reports that on separate expeditions, he took Amu prisoners and delivered them to the Pharaoh. Most Egyptologists place Amu in the Middle East but I bet to differ. In his adventures, Amen-em-heb reports that he also hunts and kills 120 elephants. I doubt that three thousand years ago there was that many elephants in Syria as Egyptologists imply. Amu, just like today, must have included parts of the mainland where Elephants could be hunted. In any case, it has been reported that during low tide, wild animals do manage to cross from the mainland to Manda Island.

Peace on Lamu Island was shattered after the Portuguese discovered a sea route from Europe to India. Soon after, they sought to dominate trade on the Indian Ocean by levying taxes on all imports and exports from and to the Arabian and Indian subcontinent. When the Lamu people defied the payment of these taxes, a Portuguese naval officer by the name of Tristao da Cunha led a blockade on the island in 1506. The blockade was only lifted after the Lamu rulers agreed to pay annual taxes to the Portuguese. Lamu’s independence was only restored in 1652 with the help of the Omanis who had migrated their capital to the Island of Zanzibar.

                                                                A canon facing the ocean just in case... | Source: Author 

The peace and prosperity of Lamu was much envied by the Mazrui Arabs who attempted to take over the island in 1812 in what is known as the battle of Shela. The Mazrui were an Omani Arab clan opposed to the Al Busaidi dynasty that ruled the Omani empire from its headquarters in Zanzibar. These Mazrui at some point, ruled over the city state of Mombasa and naturally sought to extend their influence to Lamu. The Mazruis were repulsed by the shaken Amu. However, to ensure future aggression against the island state did not recur, the fort was turned into a garrison under the umbrella of the Zanzibar sultanate. Shela today is a beach that is popular with both tourists and locals on Lamu Island. The Ocean front facing Manda is lined with ancient canons, most likely acquired from the Portuguese.

Having turned Lamu into a protectorate, Zanzibar thus extended its realm to all the islands and a 10-mile mainland strip along the East African coast. After the decline of the Portuguese in East Africa, the next European power to lay a stake on parts of Lamu was Germany. They built the first post office on the East African Coast that is today the German Post Office Museum in Lamu.

Later, Lamu fell under British influence after a barter trade with the Germans. In the Zanzibar Treaty of July 1, 1890, which is also referred to as the Helgoland-Zanzibar Treaty, Germany ceded to Great Britain her claims to the Zanzibar protectorate and the land along the coast between Witu and the Juba River. On her part, Britain ceded to Germany the island of Helgoland in the North Sea. The ten-mile strip dominion of the Zanzibar protectorate survived up to 1963 when Kenya became independent of Britain and consolidated the ten-mile strip into the republic, including of course the Lamu Archipelago. Zanzibar on its part remained independent for a while after the independence of mainland Tanganyika. Soon after, a revolution occurred and the Sultan was overthrown by a popular uprising. Zanzibar federated with Tanganyika to form the Republic of Tanzania.

                                                      Mkunguni tree - the town square  |  Source: Author 

How to get to Lamu Island

The distance from Nairobi to Lamu is 463 km as the crow flies and 236 km from Mombasa, the second largest city of Kenya which is also on the East African coast. The uninhabited Manda Island is just across the channel. By some ancient twist of fate, Manda island residents fled, living nature to take over their buildings which are now ruins of interest to archaeologist. No one knows for sure why the residents fled. Some say that the water in the wells turned saline. To this day, Manda Island, which is slightly bigger than Lamu Island, is uninhabited except for a military camp and an international airport.

The Manda Island airport is one of the gateways to Lamu Island from Nairobi, before crossing the channel by boat. The other option is to travel on the mainland by road, then cross over to Lamu Island by boat. Since Mombasa is also on the Indian Ocean coast, there is the other option of using a boat directly to Lamu Island. International tourists can therefore plan to land either in Nairobi or Mombasa then choose a connecting mode to Lamu –By air to Manda island and connect by speed boat, or direct to Lamu by boat from Mombasa.

                                       A narrow Lamu street. Many streets are this narrow. | Source: Author \

The Economy of Lamu

Before the abolition of the slave trade, Lamu not only traded in slaves but also with mangrove poles, ivory and rhino horn from the mainland. These goods were shipped by dhows to the Arabian Peninsula and the Indian subcontinent. Trade goods to the interior of Africa included beads, copper wire and cloth among others. Today, the harvesting of mangrove poles is prohibited. However, in Lamu where mangrove poles are an important ingredient in its building industry and boat constructions, limited harvesting is allowed.

There is some agricultural activity on the island’s interior and many families indulge in fishing. However, the island relies more on tourism to keep its menfolk in employment. The youth operate traditional dhows and motorboats to take tourists on excursions from beach to beach. Other youths operate motorboats to ferry visitors and locals to and from the airport on Manda Island or other destinations on the mainland.

There are many high-end medium and budget hotels. Petley's Inn at the waterfront is the oldest hotel. Others include the Lamu Palace Hotel and the Sunsail Hotel among others. Below is a list of some hotels with an idea of the cost of Bed and Breakfast as at May 2020. In order to appreciate the cost, one $ USD was equivalent to Ksh 106.97 at the point of writing this article.

·         Majlis Resort Ksh 2767

·         Kijani Ksh 15692

·         Undavelo House Ksh 9128

·         Msafini Hotel Ksh 6098

·         Jua House Ksh 6298

·         Subira house Ksh 4149

·         Shella White House Ksh 3800

·         Dudu Villas and Cottages Ksh 2158

                                                          A view of the ocean from a hotel window | Source: Author 

Lamu is a UNESCO world heritage city.

The architecture and urban structure of Lamu graphically indicates the influence of several cultures. The buildings on the shoreline have a European accent while, Arabia and India have contributed immensely to the wood curving and door frames. All this has been incorporated into traditional Swahili techniques.

The architecture of Lamu makes use of the available limited space by sacrificing the width of streets to the barest minimum. Quick lime is used to bond the limestones that are mined on Manda Island and transported over the ocean by boat, before donkeys take over to the final destination. Mangrove poles are used for structural and slab support with a few poles left exposed in ceilings and part of the interior design. More hardwood can be seen in window embellishments, door frames and balconies.

Being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lamu has a strict building and renovation code. One needs authorization from the National Museums of Kenya to make any modifications to existing buildings, when putting up a new building, rules exist to ensure that the character of Lamu architecture is maintained.

                                                                 Donkeys do what lorries do elsewhere | Source: Author 

Mangrove poles

Mangrove trees have been exploited almost to extinction. It is for this reason that harvesting is regulated by government. The products of Mangrove include firewood, charcoal, furniture and building poles for both modern and traditional dwellings. Due to its hardness and resistance to saline ocean water, mangrove wood is used in boat building and boat repair.

Conclusion

Lamu Island stands as a living archive of East African history—where ancient trade routes, colonial legacies, and Swahili traditions converge. From its mention in Egyptian texts as “Amu” to its role in resisting Portuguese domination and embracing Omani protection, Lamu has weathered centuries of change while preserving its unique identity. Its architecture, infused with Arab, Indian, and African influences, reflects a community deeply rooted in heritage yet open to the world. Today, Lamu’s economy leans on tourism, fishing, and artisanal crafts, with mangrove wood and dhows still shaping its coastal rhythm. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it remains a beacon of cultural preservation and architectural integrity. Whether arriving by boat or air, visitors encounter not just a destination—but a story etched in coral stone, lime, and memory. Lamu is more than an island; it is a testament to resilience, beauty, and the enduring spirit of the Swahili coast.