From Port Florence to Kisumu: A City Shaped by Rail, Lake, and Legend
Introduction to Kisumu City
Kisumu is Kenya's third largest city after Nairobi and the port City of Mombasa. It is the second largest in the Lake Victoria basin, after Kampala in Uganda. Kisumu’s origins as a town can be traced to the arrival of the Uganda Railway in 1901 from the port of Mombasa. The train went into service in 1903. The terminus was first called Port Florence, though the locals called it Kisuma. This was later changed to Kisumu. It is likely that the locals met at Kisuma for barter trade long before the arrival of the railway. Ancient pictures show a thriving market in Kisumu. The gulf on which Kisumu (1,131 m, 3,711 ft above sea level), is situated at Winam gulf, which is part of the larger Kavirondo Gulf on Lake Victoria. Lake Victoria is the second largest Fresh water lake in the world and the source of the River Nile. The City is the headquarters of Kisumu County. One can get to Kisumu by road, rail, air and boat, depending on which direction or country one is coming from.
How to Get to Kisumu
Reaching Kisumu can be an adventure, with several options available depending on your preference for speed and comfort.
To Kisumu By Road: The most common mode of transport among residents is by road. The journey typically passes through Naivasha and Nakuru, traversing the picturesque Rift Valley before arriving in Kisumu. This route offers scenic views and a sense of adventure. A bus ticket from Nairobi to Kisumu can cost around $14 for a Daytrip Minivan 4pax. Some say that Easy Coach buses are comfortable and have ample luggage space. There are many transport companies that operate on the Nairobi-Kisumu route. Many of the Nissan 14-seater vehicles have the word shuttle or prestige in their names. They charge the least and will take you there in record time—6 hours. Buses take up to 9 hours, but you will feel safer on the bus. The bus company with the best safety record, besides courtesy, is the Easy Coach. You can book your tickets in select supermarkets, besides the bus station itself. The bus station is near the railway station, opposite where the American embassy that was bombed in 1998 stood. A commemoration park was built there after the embassy was demolished and relocated.
To Kisumu By Air: For those seeking a quicker trip, air travel is the way to go. Several airlines, including Kenya Airways, Jambojet, and Safarilink, offer daily flights to Kisumu. This option is convenient and time-saving, making it a popular choice for business travellers and tourists alike. A round-trip flight from Nairobi to Kisumu with Kenya Airways can cost as little as $155. A one-way flight can cost around $78.
To Kisumu By Train: The safest, though by far the slowest, means of transport to Kisumu City is the Metre Gauge Railway. This railway service operates only twice a week. Despite the availability of the fast Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) to Naivasha for goods only. The Kisumu Safari Train provides a scenic and leisurely journey from Nairobi. The train departs Nairobi every Friday at 18:30 hrs, arriving in Kisumu at 06:30 hrs the next morning. The return journey is scheduled for every Sunday, with the train leaving Kisumu's new railway station at 18:30 hrs and arriving in Nairobi at 06:35 hrs. Ticket prices are quite reasonable, with a first-class ticket costing Ksh. 2,400 and an economy class ticket costing Ksh. 900.
To Kisumu Taxi - A taxi from Nairobi to Kisumu can cost around $104 (13,552 KES) for a standard class ride or up to $156 (20,406 KES) for a comfort class ride.
Whichever mode of transport you choose, each offers a unique experience, allowing you to appreciate the diverse landscapes and vibrant culture along the way. Safe travels!
Kisumu: A Historical and Cultural Hub in Western Kenya
Founded in 1901, Kisumu emerged as a pivotal trading and transportation centre in western Kenya, driven by the construction of the Uganda Railway. Originally named Port Florence, the town was christened in honour of Florence Preston, the wife of the railway engineer who oversaw its extension to Uganda. Florence Preston ceremoniously placed the final peg of the railway at the port, marking a significant milestone in its completion.
Kisumu’s strategic position on the shores of Lake Victoria, the largest freshwater lake in Africa, made it a critical hub for commerce and cultural exchange. The lake, named by British explorer John Hanning Speke in 1858 after Queen Victoria, is also known by indigenous names such as Nalubaale (Luganda), Nam Lolwe (Dholuo), and Ukerewe (Swahili), highlighting its deep cultural significance to local communities.
Before the advent of commercial jetliners, Kisumu served as a key stop for the British Flying Boat Passenger and Mail Service, connecting Southampton to Cape Town. This history as a transportation hub has left a lasting legacy, influencing Kisumu’s development into a major urban and economic centre.
The city is surrounded by agriculturally rich areas, where sugarcane and irrigated rice are cultivated on a large scale. Groundnuts and cassava are staple crops for the local community, providing both food security and economic livelihood. While Kisumu’s climate is suitable for large-scale coconut farming, this potential remains largely untapped. However some people have atteempted to grow coconuts with success though not for commercial purposes.
Kisumu is also a gateway to some of Kenya’s most captivating natural attractions. These include:
- Mount Elgon National Park—A haven for wildlife and adventure seekers.
- Kakamega Forest—the only tropical rainforest in Kenya, known for its biodiversity.
- Saiwa Swamp—A sanctuary for the rare sitatunga antelope.
- Lake Victoria—a scenic gem offering boating, fishing, and breathtaking sunsets.
Locally, Kisumu features attractions such as Dunga Beach, a vibrant fishing port, and Hippo Point, a serene spot for viewing hippos, crocodiles, and the lake’s majestic sunsets.
Kisumu maintains strong international ties, including a Friendship Status with Cheltenham, United Kingdom, and Sister City relationships with Roanoke, Virginia, and Boulder, Colorado, in the United States.
Kisumu’s rich history, vibrant culture, and natural beauty make it a unique and integral part of Kenya’s identity, offering visitors and residents alike a blend of tradition and modernity.
The People of Kisumu
The Luo people, who are predominantly fishermen, inhabit Kisumu. Over the years, the city's demographic has diversified, attracting various ethnic groups who contribute to its dynamic cultural tapestry. Neighbouring communities such as the Luhya, Kalenjin, and Kisii, and to a lesser degree, all other communities in Kenya, have made Kisumu their home. The Luo, who also kept animals besides fishing, have embraced agriculture and business, showcasing their adaptability and entrepreneurial spirit.
The municipal Market is right behind the Central Bus Park
Public Transport Within Kisumu
Public transport within Kisumu is primarily facilitated by matatus, which are 14-seater or larger buses that can accommodate up to 60 passengers. These vehicles are a quintessential part of Kenyan urban culture, often characterised by their vibrant decorations and loud music, providing a lively and unique commuting experience.
In addition to matatus, other popular modes of transport include motorcycles, known locally as bodabodas, and three-wheeled motorised rickshaws called tuktuks. Both bodabodas and tuktuks offer convenient and affordable means of navigating through the city's streets, especially for shorter distances or when traffic is heavy.
Kisumu’s Attractions
1. Simbi Nyaima
Simbi Nyaima, translating to "the village that sank," is a crater lake located a few kilometres from the shoreline of Lake Victoria. This site is steeped in Luo cultural significance due to its legendary origin story. The legend narrates that during a celebratory event at the chief’s home, an old woman seeking shelter and food was harshly turned away by the chief. One kind woman, however, took pity on her, providing food and a warm bath. In gratitude, the old woman advised her benefactor to leave the village with her family immediately. As soon as they departed, a fierce storm struck, causing the village to sink.
2. Kit-Mikayi
Kit-Mikayi, a prominent rock formation and tor standing approximately 120 meters high, is situated about 29 kilometres west of Kisumu town, near the Kisumu-Bondo road. The name Kit-Mikayi means " "the stone of the first wife" in the Luo language. This natural formation is not only a geological marvel but also holds significant cultural and spiritual importance. The site features a cave often used by locals for religious ceremonies and retreats.
The legend of Kit Mikayi involves an old man named Ngeso, who was so enamoured with the stone that he would spend entire days within its cave. His affection for the stone was so intense that his wife would bring him meals there, and when asked of his whereabouts, she would refer to the stone as his first wife (Mikayi). The shape of the rock formation is said to symbolise the traditional Luo polygamous family structure, with the first wife's house (Mikayi) in the centre, the second wife's house (Nyachira) on the right, and the third wife's house (Reru) on the left, along with the house for the firstborn son (Simba) positioned at the front. For many years, this stone has been regarded as a sacred place for the local community, offering solace and a site for worship during challenging times.
These sites together provide a rich tapestry of cultural, historical, and natural heritage, reflecting the diverse and deep-seated traditions of the Luo people and the broader Kenyan community. The archaeological discoveries at Kanam, the legendary tale of Simbi Nyaima, and the spiritual significance of Kit-Mikayi each contribute unique narratives to the understanding of the region's past and present.
3. Kisumu Museum
The Kisumu Museum offers a comprehensive glimpse into the rich heritage of the region, featuring exhibits on traditional Luo culture, local wildlife, birds, and archaeological discoveries. It serves as an educational and cultural hub, showcasing the history and biodiversity of the area. One of the museum's standout attractions is a dramatic taxidermy display depicting a lion attacking a wildebeest. Additionally, there is a gallery dedicated to the music and legends of the region. Within the museum compound, visitors can also explore a replica of a traditional Luo homestead, with huts arranged as they were in historical times.
- KWS Impala Sanctuary
A haven for wildlife, this sanctuary is home to impalas, zebras, giraffes, and various bird species. Visitors can enjoy guided walks, serene views of the lake, and the opportunity to observe wildlife in their natural habitat. - West End Shopping Mall
A modern shopping destination, the mall features a mix of retail outlets, restaurants, and entertainment options. It’s perfect for both shopping and relaxation, offering a touch of urban comfort. - Dunga Beach
A picturesque spot on Lake Victoria, Dunga Beach is famous for its fresh fish market, boat rides, and vibrant local community. It’s also a gateway to experiencing Lake Victoria’s breathtaking sunsets. - Jomo Kenyatta Recreation Park
Located in the heart of Kisumu, this green space offers a peaceful escape with well-maintained gardens, walking paths, and a playground, making it ideal for family outings. - Hippo Point
True to its name, this serene lakeside area is a great spot for viewing hippos and enjoying scenic views of Lake Victoria. It’s particularly popular for its stunning sunset vistas. - Ndele Island National Park
This island park, located within Lake Victoria, is a sanctuary for birds and aquatic life. It offers an untouched natural environment, perfect for bird watching and ecotourism.
Landing fish at Dunga Point, Kisumu
Eating out
When in Kisumu, try eating in joints that are frequented by the locals. Fish and ugali is the favourite. Chapatti and beef stew is harder to find. Do not be surprised if the meal comes without any cutlery. People culturally use their bare hands to dexterously pinch at the fish bit by bit. A chunk of ugali is moulded in the hand into a neat ball. A hole is thumbed into the ball, and the cavity is used as a vessel for the stew or greens. If you haven't tried it, you'd better; otherwise, just ask for the cutlery, and it will be obvious you are a stranger. While you are at it, do not use your left hand to eat!
Visitors from Nairobi will miss Nyama choma joints. Most places have roast chicken beside the fish. Goat meat is very rare.
Water
Make sure you have a bottle of your trusted brand of mineral water at all times. Being a lakeside city, Kisumu is hot and humid. You will dehydrate very fast, and some of the brands sold by hawkers cannot be trusted. With its rich blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and modern amenities, Kisumu provides an unforgettable experience for all types of travellers.
The Imperial Hotel on Kenyatta Avenue, Kisumu
Hotels in Kisumu
Some popular hotels in Kisumu include:
- Ciala Resort—known for its serene atmosphere and high-end services.
- Sarova Imperial—A well-established hotel offering modern amenities.
- Imperial Express—ideal for business travellers, providing both comfort and convenience.
- Best Western Kisumu Hotel—A reliable choice for visitors looking for quality service.
- Acacia Premier—A luxurious option that provides a blend of style and comfort.
For those looking for a more homely experience, there are numerous lodges that offer a welcoming environment. One such lodge is Novelty, where guests can enjoy a comfortable stay at affordable rates. Single rooms with bed and breakfast are priced at approximately 15 dollars (1900 KSH), while double rooms are available for about 20 dollars (2600 KSH). These options provide excellent value for money, making Kisumu an attractive destination for travellers on a budget.
Governance in Kisumu
Kisumu operates as both a city and a county within Kenya's devolved system of governance. The current governor is Prof. Anyang' Nyong'o, a seasoned academic and politician. Notably, he is the father of Oscar-winning actress Lupita Nyong'o. Prof. Nyong'o has served as governor since 2017, with his term expected to end in 2027 unless he seeks reelection and succeeds.
The county is divided into administrative units called wards, each represented by a Member of the County Assembly (MCA). Several wards together form a constituency, which is represented at the National Assembly by a Member of Parliament (MP).
In addition to MPs, each county elects a women representative (women's rep), whose role is to advocate for women’s issues and promote gender equality at the national level. Furthermore, every county elects a senator to represent it in the Senate, where they participate in legislative oversight and protect the interests of their county.
This governance structure ensures representation at both local and national levels, fostering development and addressing the needs of the people in Kisumu.
Pollution
Pollution of the lake by locals and industry is a major threat to the ecosystems. The water hyacinth weed has also been a menace to fishing for over a decade now. All efforts to get rid of it using biological, mechanical, and even human labour have been in vain. The people of Kisumu have learnt to live with the weed, which is a floating mass.
The Kisumu Municipal market has more order than many markets in Nairobi. There is space for the buyers to walk through. In Nairobi markets there is so much competition for space that buyers wade through produce on the ground. The city planners should plan for many more similar markets as the city is growing.
In conclusion, Kisumu is a vibrant city with a rich historical, cultural, and natural heritage. From the ancient archaeological treasures of Kanam to the legendary tales of Simbi Nyaima, and the spiritual significance of Kit-Mikayi, each site offers a unique glimpse into the diverse and deep-seated traditions of the region. The Kisumu Museum further enriches this narrative by showcasing traditional Luo culture, local wildlife, and historical artifacts, providing both educational and cultural insights.
Kisumu's transport connections, including road, air, and rail, ensure accessibility while preserving the charm and adventure of each journey. Within the city, the dynamic public transport system, vibrant with matatus, bodabodas, and tuktuks, reflects the energetic pulse of urban life.
As both a city and a county, Kisumu is a testament to the adaptability and resilience of its people. It stands as a significant hub of trade, culture, and community in Kenya, continuing to attract and embrace a diverse population that contributes to its ongoing growth and development. Whether you're exploring its historical sites, enjoying its natural beauty, or experiencing its modern conveniences, Kisumu offers a compelling blend of the past and present, making it a destination worth discovering.
All photos by the author. Contact Emmanuel Kariuki kenatene@gmail.com
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